Clinical Summary
A 2018 double-blind, randomized study in the British Journal of Dermatology (Dhaliwal et al.)
found that 0.5% Bakuchiol applied twice daily produced equivalent reduction in fine lines, wrinkles, and
hyperpigmentation to 0.5% retinol applied once daily over 12 weeks — with 44% less irritation,
scaling, and stinging. Bakuchiol is the preferred choice for sensitive, post-procedure, and reactive
skin types. Alón Labs CODE3 and ULTRA both contain clinically active concentrations of Bakuchiol.
What Is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol derived from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, a plant used in
Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine. In 2014, researchers confirmed it activates the same nuclear
retinoid receptors as vitamin A derivatives despite having no structural resemblance to retinoids.
Unlike retinol, Bakuchiol is stable in sunlight, does not cause photosensitivity, and does not trigger the
purging or adjustment period associated with vitamin A. Same receptor mechanism, different molecular pathway,
significantly gentler skin response.
What Is Retinol?
Retinol is a form of vitamin A that undergoes two enzymatic conversions after topical application: first to
retinaldehyde, then to retinoic acid, which binds to nuclear retinoid receptors and upregulates collagen
production, accelerates cell turnover, and reduces hyperpigmentation.
The trade-off is well-documented: retinol commonly causes retinoid dermatitis — peeling, redness, dryness,
and heightened photosensitivity — at over-the-counter concentrations of 0.025%–1%. Retinoids are also
contraindicated during pregnancy.
Head-to-Head Clinical Comparison
The landmark 2018 Dhaliwal et al. study in the British Journal of Dermatology was the first
double-blind, randomized comparison of Bakuchiol and retinol in human subjects. 44 volunteers applied either
0.5% Bakuchiol twice daily or 0.5% retinol once daily for 12 weeks, with outcomes measured by standardized
skin assessments and photography.
Who Should Choose Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is indicated for anyone whose skin cannot tolerate retinol, or who needs an anti-aging active with
no photosensitivity restriction.
- Sensitive and reactive skin — rosacea-prone, eczema-prone, or easily irritated skin types
- Post-procedure recovery — appropriate from day 3 after laser, chemical peels, or microneedling
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding — considered safe where retinoids are contraindicated
- Darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick III–VI) — reduced PIH risk compared to retinol's irritation cascade
- AM active users — twice-daily application without UV precautions
Alón Labs CODE3 (Bakuchiol combined with 10% Tranexamic Acid and Quercetin) and ULTRA (high-potency Bakuchiol)
are both formulated for AM and PM use.
Who Should Choose Retinol?
Retinol remains appropriate for a narrower patient profile.
- Robust, non-reactive skin with a demonstrated tolerance for acids and actives
- Users under dermatologist guidance for acne, where retinol and tretinoin have a stronger evidence base
- Prescription-only cases of severe photoaging requiring tretinoin-level intervention
Can You Use Both Together?
Some advanced users combine low-dose retinol (0.025%–0.05%) with Bakuchiol; the Bakuchiol may buffer
retinol-induced irritation by occupying shared receptor sites. For most users, Bakuchiol alone produces
equivalent clinical outcomes without the complexity or risk of adding vitamin A. Establish a Bakuchiol
routine for at least 8 weeks before evaluating whether retinol is warranted.
Bakuchiol Formulated for Clinical Results
Alón Labs has formulated with high-potency Bakuchiol since 2013. CODE3 combines Bakuchiol with 10%
Tranexamic Acid and Quercetin for complete anti-aging and post-procedure care. ULTRA provides pure
Bakuchiol for daily sensitive-skin use.